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- Cracks diagnosed before they are filled — not filler and paint over a moving joint
- Crack repair priced per running metre so you can see exactly what it costs
Why Die Wilgers Homes Crack
The homes in Die Wilgers are mostly 1970s and 1980s builds, and the recurring issue we are called out for here is not faded paint. It is cracking — often the same cracks, reappearing a year or two after the last repaint, in the same places.
Much of this part of Pretoria East sits on reactive clay soils. Clay swells when it takes up water and shrinks when it dries out, and on the Highveld that cycle is severe because the rain arrives almost entirely in one half of the year. The ground under a house built forty or fifty years ago lifts through summer and settles back through winter, and the structure moves with it. Older foundations were not always designed for that movement.
The paint is not failing. The wall is moving. Which means the repaint decision has to start with working out what kind of crack you are looking at, because the answer determines whether it is a filler job, a coating job, or a job for an engineer before anyone opens a tin.
Guide Prices for Painting in Die Wilgers
| Job | Guide price | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Hairline crack repair: cut, fill, skim | R130 – R260 per metre | Per running metre of crack |
| Structural crack: stitch, re-plaster and bridge | R380 – R780 per metre | Per running metre, incl. making good |
| Crack-bridging elastomeric coating | R120 – R200/m² | Flexible high-build system |
| Standard exterior acrylic, two coats | R70 – R120/m² | Sound plaster, no movement history |
| Exterior, single-storey 3-bed | R29,000 – R50,000 | Whole house, walls and eaves |
| Interior 3-bed incl. ceiling crack repair | R23,000 – R38,000 | Walls, ceilings, filling and two coats |
| Facebrick clear water repellent | R70 – R120/m² | Silane-siloxane, after repointing |
| Chromadek carport or roof sheeting | R110 – R180/m² | Wash, prime bare areas, roof acrylic |
Reading Your Cracks Before You Fill Them
There are three broad categories and they need three different responses.
Hairline map cracking — fine, shallow, spread over an area in a random pattern. This is plaster shrinkage, it is cosmetic, and it is fully handled by cutting out, filling, skimming and coating. No cause for concern.
Diagonal cracks running from the corners of windows and doors, typically wider at one end and often stepping through the brick joints. This is structural movement, and on clay soils it is usually seasonal. It will keep opening and closing whatever you fill it with. This is where a crack-bridging elastomeric coating earns its cost, because it stretches instead of splitting.
Cracks wider than about 5mm, cracks where one side has moved out of plane with the other, or cracks that are visibly getting worse month on month. Stop. This is a structural question, not a painting question. Get a structural engineer to look at it before spending money on a repaint, because coating over active differential settlement wastes the paint and hides the evidence.
A simple thing worth doing: mark the ends of a crack with a pencil line and a date, and photograph it. If it has extended past the marks six months later, it is live.
Coatings That Handle Movement
- Crack-bridging elastomeric coating: a flexible, high-build acrylic that stretches across hairline and small moving cracks rather than splitting over them. It costs roughly double a standard exterior acrylic per square metre, and on an elevation with recurring seasonal cracks it is money well spent
- Where not to use it: on a wall with no movement history. It is thicker, more expensive and harder to patch, and on a sound wall a standard premium acrylic performs just as well
- Crack preparation: cracks must be cut out into a V, cleaned, and filled with a flexible acrylic crack filler — not rigid cementitious filler, which is harder than the plaster around it and simply cracks alongside
- Facebrick sections: Die Wilgers has a lot of facebrick. A clear silane-siloxane water repellent keeps water out without committing you to painting brick forever. Repointing failed mortar joints first is not optional — sealer over open joints does nothing
- Chromadek and steel sheeting: carports and older roof sheeting need a wash, an appropriate galvanised iron or etch primer where the coating has failed, then a roof-grade acrylic. Standard wall paint on steel sheeting peels within a season
- Concrete tile roofs: check ridge bedding and pointing while up there. Cracked ridge mortar is common on roofs of this age and lets water into the roof space
Time Your Crack Repair to the Dry Season
This is the one piece of Die Wilgers timing advice that genuinely changes the outcome, and almost nobody does it.
Seasonal cracks on clay soils are at their widest in the dry part of the year, once the ground has shrunk back. If you cut out and fill a crack in late winter when it is fully open, the filler occupies the maximum gap, and subsequent movement compresses it. If you fill the same crack in February when the soil is swollen and the crack is closed up, the filler occupies the minimum gap, and the next dry season pulls it apart.
That points to the same window as everything else in Pretoria East for different reasons: late winter into spring, roughly mid-August through October, is ideal for crack repair followed by coating. Autumn, late March to May, also works well and gives you better overall painting weather. Either way, repair while the crack is open rather than closed.
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